Chikankari vs Other Indian Embroidery — What's the Difference?

India has dozens of regional embroidery traditions, each from a different city, each with its own techniques. Here's a quick guide to the most popular ones — and how to spot them on a kurta.

Chikankari (Lucknow)

What it is: Delicate white thread hand-embroidery on lightweight fabric — cotton, georgette, mulmul, silk. Originated in Lucknow, India, over 400 years ago.

How to spot it: Fine white-on-pastel or white-on-white floral patterns, often with raised stitches (phanda, murri) and shadow work (bakhia).

Best for: Everyday wear, summer occasions, Eid, casual elegance.

Zardozi (Lucknow, Hyderabad, Bhopal)

What it is: Heavy metallic-thread embroidery using gold and silver wire, often with pearls and stones. Traditionally done for royalty.

How to spot it: Raised gold/silver patterns, often with stonework. Heavy to the touch.

Best for: Weddings, very formal occasions, bridal wear.

Gota-Patti (Rajasthan)

What it is: Appliqué work using gold or silver ribbon (gota) cut into shapes and stitched onto fabric.

How to spot it: Flat, shiny gold/silver patterns — usually floral or geometric.

Best for: Festive wear, Rajasthani-style outfits, mehndi ceremonies.

Mukaishkari (Lucknow)

What it is: A sister-craft to chikankari, using tiny metallic dots created by knotting fine silver or gold wire into the fabric.

How to spot it: Small, twinkling metallic dots scattered through chikankari embroidery — almost like stars.

Best for: Premium chikankari pieces, evening wear, festive occasions.

Phulkari (Punjab)

What it is: Bright, geometric thread embroidery — usually on shawls and dupattas. Done in vivid colours.

How to spot it: Solid colour-blocked patterns in red, pink, yellow, green on darker fabric.

Best for: Dupattas, shawls, Punjabi-style outfits.

Kantha (West Bengal)

What it is: Running-stitch embroidery, often used on sarees and quilts.

How to spot it: Simple, dotted-line patterns in coloured thread, often with motifs of flowers, animals or village scenes.

Best for: Casual sarees, light kurtas, home textiles.

So which should you buy?

• For everyday and summer wear: chikankari
• For weddings and very formal events: zardozi or heavy gota-patti
• For festive occasions like Eid or Diwali: chikankari with mukaishkari highlights — the perfect balance of elegance and comfort
• For statement dupattas: phulkari or chikankari

Our store specialises in chikankari and mukaishkari — hand-embroidered in Lucknow, with select pieces incorporating gota-patti for festive wear. Browse the premium collection or shop our latest Eid 2026 outfits.